EXPLORING GREENER WAYS TO DYE TEXTILES

Category: DYES AND CHEMICALS

Country: Vietnam

Addressing emissions is just one part of the environmental challenges in textile production

By Lira Mercer
August 20, 2023

At a factory in Vietnam, a Dutch startup called DyeCoo Textile Systems is using carbon dioxide (CO2) to dye clothing. This innovative process doesn’t require any water or bonding chemicals, which significantly reduces water usage and emissions from textile dyeing. DyeCoo has been working with garment makers in Taiwan, the Netherlands, and Southeast Asia since 2010, with major investors such as Nike Inc. and Ikea backing the company.

The fashion industry has long been criticized for its unsustainable practices, and dyeing textiles is one of the most environmentally challenging processes. According to a report from Fashion for Good, dyeing, along with fabric pre-treatment and finishing, accounts for more than half of the industry’s total emissions. As consumers and investors demand more sustainable options, finding a greener way to add color to clothing presents a significant opportunity.

Traditional dyeing methods involve the use of hot water to loosen fabric fibers and allow them to absorb the dye. This process, known as “wet processing,” is energy-intensive and often takes place in countries like China, Vietnam, and India, where coal is the dominant and cheapest energy source.

Coal burning in textile factories contributes to the perpetuation of cheap coal usage in these countries, hindering their transition away from this polluting energy source. Currently, boilers running on coal and natural gas account for a significant portion of the carbon footprint in textile dyeing. Additionally, textile production overall generates as much as 8% of global carbon emissions, surpassing shipping and aviation combined.

While there are efforts to transition to electric boilers running on renewable energy, infrastructure, funding, and technological barriers are limiting widespread adoption. Startups like DyeCoo are focusing on reducing dyeing emissions directly. In Japan, Debs Corporation’s AirDry process uses significantly less water and energy compared to traditional dyeing methods. British startup Alchemie Technology has a similar approach.

However, addressing emissions is just one part of the environmental challenges in textile production. Many garments are made from synthetic fibers derived from fossil fuels, and the synthetic dyes used to color textiles are both fossil-fueled and major freshwater pollutants.

To address these challenges, entrepreneurs are exploring alternative methods to create sustainable colorants and fabrics. Werewool Inc., a New York startup, is using proteins derived from discosoma coral and agricultural residue to create colored fibers. Colorado-based Living Ink Technologies is producing colorants from biomass waste collected from algae growers and has already collaborated with Nike to dye T-shirts.

In conclusion, adopting greener ways to dye textiles is a crucial step towards a more sustainable fashion industry. Startups like DyeCoo and Werewool are pioneering innovative techniques that reduce water usage, emissions, and reliance on fossil fuels. While there are still challenges to overcome, such as cost and flexibility, the industry’s increasing focus on sustainability provides opportunities for these alternative methods to gain traction.

Courtesy: Claytoncountyregister.com