Category: DYES AND CHEMICALS
Country: United States
By ALLYSON REYNOLDS
12.08.2023
6.00 AM
Indigo blossoms once ran deep through the fields of South Carolina. As if out of the fairy tale “Rumpelstiltskin,” the plant could be transformed into “blue gold” — at least, that’s what many called the indigo dye in the mid-1700s.
In less than 50 years after being introduced to the land, indigo became one of South Carolina’s most valuable cash crops. Then, indigo production nearly ceased completely.
The story starts with 16-year-old Eliza Lucas Pinckney in the mid-1700s. Her father, a lieutenant governor in Antigua, owned three Lowcountry plantations and sent family members, including Eliza, and enslaved people to their Wappoo Plantation, near Charleston.
Skilled in botany, Eliza was determined to increase the wealth of the Lowcountry and used seeds sent by her father to successfully produce indigo, according to the National Park Service (NPS).
By the time of the American Revolution, indigo had made South Carolina one of the richest colonies in America. But the wealth of the indigo trade soon diminished due to tensions with the British and the establishment of the East India Trading Company, according to the NPS.
Though it diminished, indigo became an important symbol for South Carolina. The crop’s success story is represented by its color, shown in the state flag and used as the state’s official color.
The story has always intrigued Caroline Harper, who is seeking to revive this admired crop and art form it spawned.
Harper grows indigo at a small-scale production in Charleston for her textile arts business, Chi design indigo.
“I think it’s important to have (indigo) continue for years and years because it’s part of the history here in South Carolina,” Harper said.
Along with the preservation of carriage rides and basket weaving, she says, there should be indigo too.
Nine years ago, Harper traveled to Japan to learn about the process of dyeing with indigo. When she returned, she wanted to revive this so-called “blue gold,” so she began to plant her own and share her knowledge through workshops.
“I learned so much about indigo and fell in love with it,” she said.
The process of dyeing with indigo is much different than dyeing with other natural dyes that only use boiling water.
Once the blue powder is made, it is mixed with water. Then, the participants will add two agents: lime to raise the pH and Sodium Hydrosulfite to remove the oxygen. Once some other magic is done, she says, the dye is created.
The technique is something Harper has been sharing with others. Soon she’ll be doing just that with a group at Glynn Visual Arts on St. Simons Island.
Participants will use the shibori technique for the design. Designs are created by folding, tying, waxing or sewing to create resistance to the indigo dye. Harper is hosting a sold-out workshop at Glynn Visual Arts on Aug. 19 has plans to hold a similar event, indigo cotton napkin dyeing, from 1 to 4 p.m. Oct. 14. To sign up, visit glynnvisualarts.org.
“I think it’s extremely important to the area to have people get involved and express their creativity,” GVA Operations Manager Virginia Hall said about the series.
Courtesy: thebrunswicknews.com
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