Reversible Extra Weft Fabrics Weaving

October 21, 2020

Category: FABRICS

Country: India

Parisa Nagabhushanam
Faculty – Retired
Indian Institute of Handloom Technology, Salem, TN
+91 – 94439 96325
Email: parisabhushan@rediffmail.com

Extra warp and weft weaving is for surface ornamentation of fabrics for attractive appearance and value addition. Sarees, dhotis and dress material needs ornamentation with extra material. Following are few samples woven with extra warp and extra weft material. These fabrics are non – reversible. Only face side is used because back side there will be lot of lengthy floats which loosely held.

Weaving of above Sarees and Dhotis with extra warp and weft needs additional attachments like dobby and/or Jacquard.

Present article reference to the products weaving of mostly Home furnishing. Reversible Extra weft fabrics weaving of this article results the design character in Abstract form.

Advantages of Reversible Extra weft woven fabrics are:
1) Fabrics woven are reversible – both sides can be used.
2) Extra weft woven is very compact structure – 3 & 1 Stitching (Extra weft floats over 3 ends and fourth end stitches both on face and back sides).
3) No loose extra weft floats like traditional extra weft design weaving.
4) Heald shafts and treadles saving is the biggest advantage.
5) Warp in single series and mono colour, weft two series.
6) Ground weft and extra weft. Weaving order 1 : 1, One Ground Pick : One Extra Pick.
7) Ground weft is same count as warp and mono colour, preferably as warp.
8) Extra weft count has to be coarser to ground weft count or two ply for solid design appearance.

Motifs for Reversible Extra Weft Fabrics Weaving:

Following design arrangement options are possible on 8 Groups. Heald shafts are 8 + 2 = 10.

8 Groups can be arranged as: 1) 1 up, 7 down order, 2) 2 up, 6 down order, 3) 3 up, 5 down order, 4) 4 up, 4 down order, 5) 3 up, 3 down, 1 up & 1 down order, 6) 3 up, 2 down, 1 up & 2 down order, 7) 4 up, 2 down, 1 up & 1 down order, 8) 3 up, 1 down, 2 up & 2 down order, etc.

All the above design arrangements are possible on the following draft Orders.

Draft orders – Possible design effects:
1) Straight Draft – Diagonal Effects, Wavy Twill Effects Along (Regular & Fancy), Sateen arrangement, Rib forms (Warp & Weft), Hopsack, Combination of two or more, etc.
2) Pointed Draft (Regular) – Wavy Twill Effect Across and Diamond.
3) Pointed Draft (Fancy) – Fancy Wavy Twill Effect Across and Fancy Diamond.
4) Herringbone Draft – Herringbone Twill Effects.
5) Transposed Draft – Transposed Twill Effects.

Loom Requirement:
A) Multi treadle frame loom (Handloom) – No additional attachments like Dobby and/or Jacquard
B) Frame loom with vertical dobby (Handloom) or Pick – At – Will Powerloom with dobby or Rapier loom with dobby or Air jet loom with dobby.

Draft Order:
Group draft. Unit/Block size is predefined. Each group is drawn No. of times – Block width.

Weaving Order:
Weft 1 : 1. One ground pick : One extra pick. Each group is woven No. of times – Block height.

Motif – 10; Fancy Wavy Across & Diamond:
Group draft reversed at multiple places to result fancy effect. Weaving also in Groups like draft.
A) If woven straight (1 to 6 Groups), resultant fabric is Fancy Wavy Twill effect across the cloth.
B) If woven like draft order, resultant fabric is Fancy Diamond.

On this draft on 6 Groups, another possible design options are:
1) 2 up, 4 down, 2) 3 up, 3 down, 3) 1 up, 2 down, 2 up, 1 down, 4) 1up, 3 down, 1 up, 1 down 5) 2 up, 2 down, 1 up, 1 down.

Motif, draft order, design and peg plan (lifting plan):

Warp – Gr. “X” Times = Group draft No. of Times to get the predefined Unit/Block width.
Weft – G X T = Group weaving No. of Times to get the predefined Unit/Block height/length.