Why GI tag for Sujani weaving of Bharuch is significant

Category: HOME TEXTILES

Country: India

Region: Asia

It will secure the future of a century-old handicraft that just two years ago had barely a few artisans as the last custodians

By Jumana Shah
8th April, 2024 | Updated 9th April, 2024 12:23 IST
Edited By: Ashish Mukherjee
Published By: Shyam Balasubramanian

Gujarat’s endangered Sujani weaving handicraft, which last week received a GI (Geographical Indication) tag, is the first product from Bharuch to attain such protection. GI tagging will aid the survival of this unique and century-old form of weaving of quilt in which the fabric is woven simultaneously and interlocked at fixed intervals, creating pockets in between for cotton to be filled in.

The final product is woven in double fabric in handloom in such a way that the entire quilt is prepared without a single stich. This technique of hand-weaving is practised only in Bharuch, and till recently was exclusively done by a handful of families.

Geographical Indication is awarded to products that have a specific geographical origin and characteristics related to a particular location. It indicates that the product originates from a definite geographical territory. It is awarded by the Geographical Indication Registry in Chennai, overseen by the Controller General of Patents, Designs, and Trade Marks under the ministry of commerce and industry.

There are several theories about the origin of Sujani weaving. Most popularly, it is believed that Bharuch resident Hafiz Gulam Hussain, who was jailed by the British in the Andamans on a false complaint of participation in the 1857 mutiny, had picked up the art during his incarceration. Historical evidence suggests Sujani handicraft was considered a privileged gift, and kings and nawabs would order it on advance payment for use on special occasions and celebrations.

Ironically, by 2022, only two Muslim families and four men had remained in Bharuch with the knowledge of this prized art of weaving. “Till about 20 years ago, there were 40-50 looms on which Sujani was made, but over the years, lack of access to markets due to depleting resources had put Sujani work out of favour. It was the Bharuch administration’s ROSHANI (Revival of Sujani Handloom & Neoteric Inclusion of Artisans) project, launched in March 2023, that helped revive the art,” says Bharuch district collector Tushar Sumera.

The handmade quilts had lost market share to China’s machine-made products, which were cheaper and flaunted contemporary designs. But the unique weaving style and the breathable fabric makes Sujani a unique and premium product that continues to enjoy an international market, if cultivated professionally.

An entire generation of new Sujani weavers was created through various interventions, such as forming a cooperative society of weavers, who include Muslim and tribal women, developing a training cum production centre for them, formalising the handloom business and standardising the product. Led by Sumera, the administration set up the Rewa Sujani Centre in a heritage building in Furja area in the heart of Bharuch.

The Rewa Sujani Centre, from where the cooperative society is run, turned into a focal point for artisans for training and exchange of knowledge, and became the fountainhead of an entire generation of Sujani weavers, beyond the original custodians of the handicraft. An estimated eight people in Bharuch and nearby areas have been trained for Sujani weaving now.

Over 100 people who were earlier into Sujani weaving have already joined the cooperative and are looking forward to restart their business. “Earlier, this art of double cloth weaving with some nuances was practised in communities in northern states like Punjab, but they have all died now. Sujani is the only art that survives today, so conserving it is very essential,” explains Sumera.

While earning livelihood, these Sujani artisans have also received exposure to various national and international exhibitions, such as the G-20 conferences held at Mahatma Mandir in Gandhinagar, the National Handloom Day celebrations at New Delhi’s Bharat Mandapam, and the Bharat Tex show last month in the national capital.

Sujani was also included in the central government’s ODOP (One District, One Product) list to give it wider access to national and international markets. It also benefitted from various workshops and documentation activities, such as product development and design sensitisation by the Ahmedabad-based National Institute of Design (NID), craft documentation by the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Gandhinagar, and the Gujarat government’s Hastkala Setu Yojana.

GI tagging is increasingly being used to identify agricultural, natural or manufactured goods. The goods should be produced/processed/prepared in that territory and must have a special quality, reputation or characteristic.

Besides securing its future, the GI tag will provide Sujani legal protection against unauthorised use. It will boost exports and promote economic prosperity in the region. In addition to conserving a dying art, the revival of Sujani has also served as a confidence-building measure with the minority community in Bharuch district, which is increasingly getting polarised. Of particular mention is the gradual inclusion of women in this art as it has the potential to give them employment in the long run. Yet again, we are reminded that nothing connects the society more than art does.

Courtesy: Indiatoday.in